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The German capital in the heart of Europe.

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Berlin but sexy

The mayor claims Berlin is "poor, but sexy". We take a closer look on the latter aspect.

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Tuesday, 2008-06-17

The Weaker Sex

Until I was almost attacked one night, I always felt completely safe in this city. Berlin is a safe place on the whole; you don’t often hear of people being mugged or knifed or raped as you do in some other capital cities. So I always walked home alone at night; I never thought twice about taking short cuts down unlit streets. I knew, with the glorious stubbornness of youth, that nothing could happen to me.
by Anna Patton

Until recently, that is, when I encountered an opportunistic stranger, late one Saturday night. He wanted to accompany me home, he said. He blocked my path and wouldn’t let me continue. Only then did I realise how dark the street was, how empty but for me and him, how ironic it would be if something were to happen here, just a few streets away from the safety of my home. For some minutes, I was aware only of the threat before me and his vice-like grip on my arm. Against his physical strength, all I had was my determination not to be beaten – that, and an instinctive rage. Maybe he sensed that determination, or maybe it was my shouting at him, or maybe he saw the couple that thankfully appeared at the end of the street; either way, he finally let go and wandered off, cursing me.

Unbenannt1.jpgI had thought I was invincible; or more precisely, I thought I was as invincible as any man. When I was about 10 years old I had a pencil case with a cartoon picture of a girl with a speech bubble that said “Anything boys can do, girls can do better”. To say that I lived according to the slogans on my stationery would be going a bit far – but I think I did believe that girls could be just as good as boys, if not better, at everything. Turns out I was wrong. My recent encounter was a stark reminder of the weakness of the fairer sex.

For a few weeks afterwards, I felt nervous anytime I ever heard footsteps behind me. I retained the image of his face in my mind, and I compared that image to every man I saw on the U-Bahn, every man I walked past on the street, to make sure that it wasn’t him. My anxiety has more or less disappeared by now. My awareness of my vulnerability, however, has not.

As Samantha from “Sex and the City” says (and she ought to know): sex is power. Yes, women can – and do – enjoy the power that this gives us over men. But the power isn’t always in female hands; sex also makes us vulnerable. No amount of feminism will ever alter our physical inferiority. No matter how much progress we make in terms of equal rights, equal pay, equal status, we’ll always be the weaker sex – in one sense, at least.

Monday, 2008-05-26

The Language of Love

“That's how all start. From a misunderstanding. When you say 'guest' I think you meaning I can stay in your house. A week later, I move out from Chinese landlord.” An Englishman’s politeness (by unwittingly saying “be my guest”) triggers off a fraught love affair with a wide-eyed young Chinese girl in Xiaolu Guo’s novel, “A Concise Chinese-English Dictionary for Lovers”. The scene is set for a relationship characterised by misunderstandings and miscommunication.

If anyone can relate to the linguistic challenge of dating someone of another mother tongue, it’s surely us, the Erasmus generation. Yet, though we may be getting better and better at mastering other languages, some things just don’t translate.

The damage can be serious – as I know only too well. When a French love interest said to me, “You ‘ave small eyes”, I was so taken aback, I almost muttered something about his big nose in retaliation. Turns out he wasn’t commenting on my sub-standard features, since “avoir petits yeux” is simply an expression meaning “to look tired”. By the time I’d figured that out, it was too late. My Irish friend Eddie, besotted by his new Colombian chica, recently told her over the phone how much he was looking forward to hugging her. Unfortunately for him, his Spanish wasn’t quite up to scratch: what he actually said was, “I can’t wait to impregnate you”. It was a while before he managed to convince her that he wasn’t just desperate for a kid.

Sometimes, the language barrier rears its ugly head before you’ve even had the chance to become properly acquainted. A Dutch friend, approaching a handsome English fellow in a bar, casually asked him for a cigarette. Not knowing the English for “roll-up”, she used the Dutch word instead. Of course, he nearly fell off his chair when she said, “Can I have a shag from you?”

Keeping it simple

There seem to be a few phrases designed specifically to catch out naïve lovers – and French surely wins the prize for the language causing most shame and humiliation. How are we foreigners supposed to know that there’s a difference between “un baiser” (the innocent noun) and to “baiser” (the anything-but-innocent verb)? And then there are all those unexpected innuendoes that catch you unawares: never again will I dare to mention my (female) pussy-cat in public.

Of course, the language barrier isn’t all painful – it can make things more interesting too. A sexy accent and a hint of the exotic can turn a Dull John into an infinitely More Interesting Gianni. And with all those new words to be learned, you’ll never run out of things to talk about. In some ways, too, not sharing the same native language means you’re necessarily restricted to keeping things simple: no over-analysing or having “the talk” about where the relationship is going. (I wonder, is that why men in particular are so interested in foreign girls?) On the other hand, if it takes over a minute just to formulate the sentence in your head, there is a certain limitation as to how spontaneous your relationship will ever be. Jokes are pretty hopeless; and as for arguing, forget it – once you are able to scream at someone in another language at the same time as throwing plates at them, well, by then you’re fluent anyway.

Indeed, as we all know by now, men and women – inhabitants of different planets, never mind countries – speak a different language anyway. With the odds stacked against them, then, isn’t it rather a miracle that heterosexual, cross-national couples ever make it to the bitter end?

Saturday, 2008-04- 5

Why German men don’t flirt

I’ve been living in Germany for a year now. So far, the closest I have come to being chatted up was when, out of the blue, I found myself at the receiving end of a stream of lager-fuelled verbal abuse. I only hope that this wasn’t supposed to be a chat-up line.
by Anna Patton

Of course, I’d be willing to accept that the problem lies with me – I’m no Angelina Jolie, after all, and I don’t even own a push-up bra. Indeed, I did assume the fault was my own, until I realised I wasn’t the only one to have experienced such blatant indifference to my feminine charms. For, as it turns out, every girl I know in this city has suffered the same disinterest. Fiona*, who’s been living here for 2 years, wasn’t at all surprised when I suggested that it was difficult to get to know men in Berlin: “Oh absolutely, you have to be really pushy here – German men never make the first move.” And Carola told me that in all her life, she had never once been chatted up by a German man: she is a native Berliner. Men here simply do not approach strangers.

And I’m not even being very demanding here. After all, my standards are based on the charming yet mostly hopeless British / Irish culture, where flirting mostly consists of clumsily sidling up to a girl at the bar and stuttering something incomprehensible, or later on, perhaps, drunkenly lunging at her on the dance floor. My flirtatious encounters to date have been mostly unmemorable and rarely romantic. (The low point would have to be: “I like the way your hair blows in the breeze”. We were sitting in the living room at the time.) But even those goofy lines or leery gestures, cringe-worthy as they are, give you something to work with, and at least let you know where you stand. In Germany, that serious-looking man sitting just over there may be passionately in love with you, and you would never know.

Victims of Venustraphobia

So what is actually going on here? Is it that German men don’t want to flirt – or is it a matter of being physically unable to do so? Some kind of genetic thing, much in the way white people can’t rap and Europeans can’t dance? Did the emergence of the Italian Stallion and French charmer all those centuries ago cause the German species to evolve in the other direction – nature’s way of balancing things out for the women of Europe?

The evidence of a German incapacity to flirt is rife, at least on an anecdotal level. The numerous “flirt schools” and flirting workshops across the country would barely survive the close of a business day somewhere in the Med. And recently, an article that appeared in several publications compared flirting habits across cultures. German men, it found, “see the conquest of German women as an extreme sport…. The charm thing doesn’t really come into it”. Clearly German men aren’t much into their high-risk sports; according to the author, they may even be victims of “Venustraphobia” – the fear of chatting up beautiful women. Some see this fear as having been provoked by an excessively emancipated female population, who have now taken over the predator role in the sexual hunting game.

Scoring a German

But could it simply be a matter of men behaving in the way that society expects them to? German women, it is claimed, expect their menfolk to show restraint. The Spiegel Online, in the run-up to the German World Cup in 2006, provided some guidelines for foreign fans looking to “score a German” after the game. Would-be seducers should be cautious, it warned, since saying hello to a German lady “comes across as overly forward”. Saying hello? What is this, the 19th century? The Deutsche Welle, offering advice to international students on the subject of flirting, also advises caution. Apparently, “eye contact and good manners” will get you much further than “exaggerated macho posturing”. It seems the definition of flirting auf Deutsch is still limited to a stony-faced stare from across the room.

So why don’t men here flirt? Partly it’s about conforming to standards: getting a wolf whistle as you walked down Unter den Linden would be a bit much. But I don’t believe any German woman could justifiably be offended by being approached by a friendly stranger – that’s just an excuse. Basically, men are afraid to make fools of themselves, because that’s precisely the risk that flirting entails, and Germans don’t go in for risks. They like to do things properly and thoroughly, not spontaneously or irrationally. Forget genetic predisposition, or even cultural conditioning. Germans just aren’t into extreme sports. Although, come to think of it, I’ve never been one for the adrenalin rush either. Perhaps it’s time I checked out one of those flirting seminars?

*Names have been changed

Tuesday, 2008-03- 4

Forget Romance – Buy a Bed

Berlin is the spiritual home of the commitment-shy. The tongue-in-cheek expression Lebensabschnittsgefährte just about sums it up. This wonderfully unwieldy description for your significant other – meaning ‘fellow companion for a part of your life’ – is Berlin in a nutshell. Forget romance: this is a city for 21st century relationships – brazenly uncommitted, ever-changing and caught up in a fever of living in the moment.
by Anna Patton

With its famously liberal attitude to sex – the proud hometown of fetish parties, swingers’ clubs, a Gay Museum and an ‘Erotic Museum’ – Berlin doesn’t exactly conform to the image of Prussian puritanism. And so Berliners replace, recycle and update their ‘fellow companions’ at the blink of an eye, much as the city itself falls in and out of love with the latest fashions. No wonder so many residents could identify with the quirky ‘Museum of Broken Relationships’, a Croatian travelling exhibition, when it toured to Berlin – with great success – in 2007.

This whole mindset of living very much in the present doesn’t just apply to relationships. It seems to be engrained in the way people live and work. The lengthy years devoted to studying – the average age of graduating in Germany is 28 – and the high unemployment rate in Berlin makes ‘settling down’ a distant prospect for most twenty-somethings. And even if you are ready to put your roots down here, there is little tradition of buying homes in Germany – worlds away from Londoners’ obsession with ‘getting on the property ladder’. You’re much more likely to rent for many years before even thinking about a mortgage. Choosing to settle in Berlin, then, is only as final as your contract with your landlord dictates. Another opt-out from making those life-changing decisions.

I thought I was being uncharacteristically decisive, however, by when I purchased my own bed on moving to Berlin. It seemed like statement; after all, a 140cm-wide lump of furniture wouldn’t be quite as easy to pick up along with the backpack anytime I got restless. I’d have to stick around for some time. But it seems I wasn’t being so decisive after all. For, as a friend pointed out, these 140cm-wide beds – the halfway-size between single and double – are precisely for people who can’t decide if they want to be single or attached. Seems I’ve already been infected by the Berlin mentality of committing to nothing.